Building Permits Made Easier For Garages
|PERMIT REQUIREMENTS: Building permits are required for construction of all new garages whether they are to be attached to the home or built as detached structures. The building code in Minnesota differentiates between attached and detached garages and there are some differences in the requirements. Garages must also meet the land use and setback requirements of the City Zoning Code and these too vary based on the type of garage to be built. Zoning questions should be directed to the local Planning and Zoning Department.|
PERMIT FEES: The building permit fee is based on the project’s construction cost and is designed to cover the cost of plan review and the field inspections that will be done during construction. The plan review is done by the building inspector in order to spot potential problems or pitfalls that may arise. The inspector will make notes on the plan for your use. Construction inspections will be done during the project to insure code compliance and the materials you use are installed safely. The plan review and inspections are not designed to be a guarantee of the work but are done to provide a reasonable degree of review and observation so the project will be successful, safe and long lasting.
INFORMATION NECESSARY WHEN APPLYING FOR A BUILDING PERMIT: Information necessary for the Inspections division to do a proper job of plan review and to help the project go smoothly are as follows:
1. Completed Application for permit
2. 2 copies of site plan or survey
3. 2 copies of floor plan
4. 2 copies of elevations
Remember the purpose of the plan review is for the inspector to use his or her experience to inform you of potential problems or make suggestions, so the more information shown on the plans the more likely your project will be successful.
MINIMUM PLAN DETAIL NECESSARY FOR A PROPER PLAN REVIEW: The following text and sample drawings show the minimum detail expected so the permit process can proceed smoothly. Plans do not need to be professionally drawn but should include all of the information requested. The application for permit can be filled out at the time you drop off your plans. Permits can usually be handled by stopping in at city hall or by mail.
|SUBMIT 2 COPIES OF A CERTIFICATE OF SURVEY OR SITE PLAN: The certificate of survey or site plan needs to be drawn to scale indicating the lot dimensions, the location and size of the existing structure(s), and the location and size of the proposed structure. Indicate the setbacks from property lines of the existing and proposed structure(s). See sample site plan.||
SAMPLE SITE PLAN
SUBMIT 2 COPIES OF THE FLOOR PLAN SHOWING PROPOSED DESIGN AND MATERIALS: All drawings need to be drawn to scale and the scale should be shown on the drawing. Floor plans should include all of the following:
- Proposed size of garage
- Location and size of window and door openings
- Size of headers over all doors and window openings
- Size, spacing and direction of rafter (roof) materials
- Type (grade & species) of lumber to be used
|SUBMIT 2 COPIES OF CROSS SECTION SHOWING PROPOSED DESIGN AND MATERIALS:
All cross sections should include the following:
SAMPLE CROSS SECTION
LAND USE RESTRICTIONS: Setbacks from property lines vary depending upon the city and zoning district your home is located in. They may also vary dependent on whether the garage is attached to the home or detached. Some communities have additional zoning provisions besides setbacks that may apply to a garage. These may include, lot coverage, building height or limitations to the number and size of accessory structures on the lot. Contact the Building or Planning Department in your community for the requirements in your location. This is an important first step in the planning for any garage project.
BUILDING CODE REQUIREMENTS: FOOTINGS: Footings must be extended below frost depth for all attached garages. A “floating slab” may be used for the foundation support of detached garages up to 1000 square feet on all soils except peat and muck. If a floating slab is used sod and root structures must be removed and replaced with 4 inch sand fill. The perimeter of the slab must be thickened to a minimum vertical dimension of 12 inches at the edge. The bottom of the thickened edge must be at least 8 inches wide and then may be sloped upward to meet the bottom of slab at 45 degree angle. The minimum slab thickness must be 3 1/2 inches. The minimum concrete strength required is 3,000 pounds per square inch (28 day strength). In cold weather, protect concrete from freezing until cured. When slab is over 200 sq. feet in area, provide a minimum of reinforcement of 6 x 6 No. 10 gage wire mesh. Over lap splices and bend down into the edge of the slab at least 6”. When the slab is over 400 sq. feet in area, provide 2 - #4 re-bar around the perimeter of the slab. Note: Fiber mesh is not acceptable in place of wire mesh for structural slabs.
ANCHOR BOLTS: Foundation plates or sills must be bolted to the foundation with not less than 1/2 inch diameter steel bolts embedded at least 7 inches into the concrete and spaced not more than 6 feet apart. There must be a minimum of two bolts per piece with one bolt located within 12 inches of each end of each piece.
SILL PLATES: All foundation plates or sills and sleepers on a concrete or masonry slab, which is in direct contact with earth, and sills which rest on concrete of masonry foundation must be of approved treated wood, foundation cedar or redwood not less than 2 inches in thickness, having a width not less than that of the wall studs.
WALL FRAMING: Studs must be placed with their wide dimension perpendicular to the wall, and not less than three studs must be installed at each corner of an exterior wall. Minimum stud size is 2 x 4 and spaced not more than 24 inches on center.
TOP PLATES: Bearing and exterior wall studs need to be capped with double top plates installed to provide overlapping at corners and at intersections with other partitions. End joints in double top plates must be offset at least 48 inches.
HEADERS: Headers for 16’-0” door in gable (non-bearing) end shall be minimum 2 - 2 x 12’s with plywood in-between. When the door is located in bearing wall, header shall be minimum of 2 - 14” laminated headers if truss length is up to 24 ft. If truss length is up to 32 ft., 3- 14” laminated headers are needed.
SHEATHING, ROOFING AND SIDING: Approved wall sheathing, siding, roof sheathing and roof coverings must be installed according to the manufacture's specifications. Structural sheathing when used on roofs, clips must be used or spacing is required.
ROOF FRAMING: Size and spacing of conventional lumber used for roof framing depends upon the roof pitch, span, the type of material being used, and the loading characteristics being imposed. Attached garages must be designed for the appropriate snow load in your local area (contact your local building inspector). Detached garages need to be designed for a 30 pound per square foot snow load. Rafters need to be framed directly opposite each other at the ridge. A ridge board at least 1 inch (nominal) thickness and not less in depth than the cut end of the rafter is required for hand framed roofs. At all valleys and hips, there also needs to be a single valley or hip rafter not less than 2 inches (nominal) thickness and not less in depth than the cut of the rafter. Rafters must be nailed to the adjacent ceiling joist to form a continuous tie between exterior walls when the joist are parallel to the rafters. Where not parallel, rafters must be tied to a minimum 1 x 4 (nominal) cross tie spaced a minimum four foot on center.
MANUFACTURED ROOF TRUSSES: If you are using manufactured roof trusses instead of hand framing your roof you will need to provide a copy manufactures truss specifications, signed by a MN state licensed engineer at the time of your framing inspection. Also you will need to install the roof trusses and all required bracing according to the truss manufacture specifications.
WALL OPENING PROTECTION: Exterior garage walls located within 6 feet of a dwelling or three feet to any property line must be protected with material approved for one hour fire resistive construction. Doors shall be approved self-closing solid wood at least 1 3/8” in thickness or a self-closing, tight fitting door having a fire protection rating of not less than 20 minutes.
ELECTRICAL: If you are putting any electrical wiring in your garage this will require a separate permit form the Minnesota State Board of Electric. Please call the Minnesota State Board of Electric at 651-642-0800 or call the local Electrical Inspector at 763-682-2027. NOTE: The above outlines only general code requirements with regard to garage construction. For specific code requirements refer to the Minnesota State Building Code and/or contact your local Building Inspector.
1. FOOTING/CONCRETE SLAB: To be made after all form work is set up, mesh laid, rods wired in, etc.: but prior to the pouring of concrete.
2. FRAMING: To be made after all framing, blocking and bracing are in place, rough electrical (if any) is approved, siding and roof covering materials are installed and prior to closing the construction so as to make it inaccessible for inspection. (This inspection can be completed at the time of the final inspection if all parts of the framing will be visible and accessible at the final inspection.)
3. FINAL: To be made upon completion of the garage, electrical final inspection and finish grading.
4. OTHER INSPECTIONS: In addition to the three inspection above, the inspector may make or require other inspections to ascertain compliance with the provisions of the code or to assist you with your questions or concerns during the construction process.
24 - 48 HOUR NOTICE IS REQUIRED FOR ALL INSPECTIONS
CALL METRO WEST INSPECTION SERVICES AT (763) 479-1720
Be sure your contractor is licensed
- It’s the law in Minnesota